If there is one element of cookery I deplore
It is that when you go to cook,
the recipe suddenly calls for a roux or a stock or something
that should have been started the day before.
-Ogden Nash
For me, most of life is spent vacillating between over preparation and under preparation. I would like to call it an impetuous quality, something mindfully developed in the spirit of surprise, however I know all too well that repeatedly being caught unawares is less conscious choice and more neglect. Good preparation makes it easier to tackle the task at hand. I suppose that's why yoga comes in so handy; it strikes a balance in body, mind and spirit that can only be practiced in the moment. However, with mindful preparation, and by setting the right intent, the execution of the practice becomes something truly beautiful. This is as true on my yoga mat as it is in the kitchen. I'm trying to weave together this metaphor for cooking... are ya with me? Perhaps I should have prepared better...
My grandmother gave me an Ogden Nash book when I was a teen. She was always bequeathing my siblings and I with gifts from museum stores and books with big words at a time when dictionary.com was not available to our young minds. No longer in my teens, I have come to appreciate Ogden Nash, though much of his poetry, being littered with time-period reference and behemoth vocabulary, still sails far over my head. Anyway, I will be citing him from time to time because he has great humor and fun rhythm in his works. Oh, and they are all about food, did I mention that?
I am playing blog catch-up today as last week took me quite unawares, hence the little ditty about prep above. I hope if you are reading this, you are having fun with Fresh On My Plate. I certainly ran pell mell into the week with little time to run to visit farmers markets, cook, or even blog post. But that's what this adventure is about, seeing how we can morph our lives into our healthier intent simply by deciding, and walking through it. Oh boy, that's so yoga too.
The Tools
I would like to talk a little about tools in your kitchen. Please bear in mind that I am in no way an expert on any of the topics on this page, so I will often cite the experts.
I can think of no better, bigger, or cooler expert in cooking than Thomas Keller. He is the chef's chef, the cook's cook, not only the brilliant professor of the culinary world but also the muse. His extensive knowledge and professionalism are met only by his humor and whimsy. I know all of this because I have read a total of one of his books, Ad Hoc at Home, and not only enjoyed the read from a literary perspective, but learned more about the art of cooking than I have ever learned anywhere. Ever. Did I mention ever? Plus there is a cartoon at the back with him wearing a superhero's cape, which is so totally cool.
I really like this guy. I have also perused the pages of The French Laundry. And if I ever save enough to purchase a small plane, I plan to visit his restaurant of the same name in Yountville CA. Actually it would have to be enough for two small planes, one to fly up to the Napa Valley area, and the other amount to pay for dinner. I have eaten at Bouchon in the past, his lesser known but no less delicious venture located down the road from the Laundry. And no less important than the food is that all of his coworkers appear pleased as punch to be there.
From Ad Hoc at Home
There he is, the Master. Look at that face, don't you just want to smother him with affection?
So, for Keller the secret equation is Great Product + Great Execution = Great Cooking, simple enough, right? That's it. Here are some of his thoughts on the tools of execution:
Cooking is a Craft, and a Craft Requires Tools
Keller states that you need only a dozen or so tools in your kitchen for most of the cooking that you will do. Therefore, buying those few high-quality items should not be prohibitively expensive. He also states that you should purchase that which is aesthetically pleasing to you, and expresses your personality. The tools should inspire you as much as the food.
Take My Knife, Please
Or don't, because I love my knife. I use one santoku knife (a Japanese style of a chef's knife) for almost everything, unless I need a little more finesse, like when separating the rind from slices of cantaloupe, for which I use a paring knife. Keller cites four knives to have in your arsenal:
-a 10-inch chef's knife
-a 12-inch slicing knife
-a paring knife
-a serrated knife for cutting bread
A good knife should last your a lifetime. Also, make sure you have a steel to keep your knives sharp, and steel them frequently. Get a sharpening stone and learn how to sharpen properly, or find a good knife sharpening service. Sharp knives make your work both easier and better, and they're safer to use than dull knives.
All Aboard the Cutting Board
According to Keller, your cutting board should be forgiving to your knife, wood or a soft synthetic material, and it should be LARGE, at least 12 by 18 inches. Make sure you prevent it from slipping, either by purchasing one with feet or by placing a damp paper towel or towel beneath it. I use a large bamboo board for almost everything, unless I am cutting up something small, like garlic, then I use a small synthetic board that is easy to clean.
The Workhorse
When it comes to pots and pans, Keller recommends a large cast iron skillet for most things. I have yet to purchase one of these, but plan to in the near future. If you are lucky, you have inherited one of these bad boys from family. They are versatile and you can do anything from roasting a chicken, to sauteing veggies, to poaching or braising. Keller calls it the workhorse.
Beyond the cast iron skillet, Keller says the same rules that apply to knives apply to your pots and pans - Dutch ovens, roasting pans, saucepans, frying pans, etc. Strong, durable products are way better than a flimsy aluminum pan. I use a large copper bottom saute for most dishes, as it can also go in the oven for roasting. The copper allows for good heat distribution, and the stainless surface is easy to clean.
Keller notes that he believes there is a place for nonstick in the kitchen. We do not use nonstick at all, as I am concerned about the chemical fallout (canary in the kitchen), though I admit I have not updated my research in the past few years (look for it in a blog in the coming days). He states that nonstick is handy for cooking eggs and fish, however make sure it is good quality with a coating that does not come off in your food.
Appliances
Keller's appliance list is simple:
-AVita Mix
-standing mixer (aka Kitchenaid)
-a good scale for accurate measuring
-a food processor
The only one of these tools I own is a food processor, which I occasionally drag out for making pesto or chopping nuts. Most of the time I can't be bothered. I do use an immersion blender from time to time to make sauces and baked goods.
Idiosyncrasies
A list of Keller's other handy items:
-fine-mesh conical and basket strainers
-large spoons
-wooden spoon or heatproof spatula
-palette knife
-Japanese mandoline
-pepper mill
-parchment paper
-kitchen twine
Be Organized
This is not so much a tool, as a frame of mind. Keller brought it right back 'round on me, as any good lover mentor will do. He states:
Being organized - as we say, in our kitchen, working clean, - is a skill to develop. We call it mis-en-place, French for, literally, "put in place." The term can be very specific, referring to the ingredients needed to complete a recipe, measured out and ready to use, or it can be more general: are you organized, do you have everything you need to accomplish the task at hand?
Such balance, such wisdom. Oh Thomas, you make me Om.
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